Barolo & Friends

On Barolo...

Copenhagen Wine Forum Revisited

2002 Bouquin-Dupont, Blanc de Blancs, Avize, Grand Cru Champagne - closed but this is going to evolve in elegant, charming but in the same time very serious Champagne.

Copenhagen Wine Forum

Start...


and the start of the day...

Barolo & Friends Event

Master Classes, Château La Mission Haut-Brion vertical tasting

Château with a brilliantly outstanding achievements; the unofficial sixth First Growth and once more...


a unique chance to experience a superb wine vertical tasting.


Jean-Philippe Delmas of Château La Mission Haut-Brion and Sarah Kemp – shared the podium.


A tasting of 8 vintages from 1995 to 2005 and two vintages Laville Haut Brion, each offering pleasure and finesse one after another...

First Flight: 2005, 2004, 2003, 2001, 2000


Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2005
Very closed but with a long, long nutty finish. So silky... somehow mix between 2000 and 2001. (19+/20)

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2004
Farm, earthy, such a classical beauty... (18/20)

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2003
This is quite strange... tannic bite,red fruit... (17/20)

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2001
Cedar, tobacco, havana, very elegant and somewhat easy to drink... (18.5/20)

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2000
Deep layered nose, very complex, long finish and such a elegance and complexity (19.5/20)

Second Flight 1999, 1998, 1995

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1999
A big beauty, sweet nose, very approachable right now, very long finish, lasts for a minutes... (19/20)

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1998
Open, concentrated and very precise. Round and well integrated with a marvelous nutty aftertaste... (19+/20)

Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1995
Dark core, minerally component, appealing and lean character. Very elegant but a little green (18+/20)

Third Flight: 2006 and 2007

Château Laville Haut Brion 2006
Big and fatty semillon... long and amazing.

Château Laville Haut Brion 2007
Just amazing white...

Master Classes, Vintage Champagne

I had a chance to discover the exciting and much-praised cuvées from some of Champagne’s finest vintages...


with Essi Avellan MW, Finland’s first Master of Wine and editor of Fine Champagne magazine.


knowing your vintage...


let's the game begin...

Philipponnat Grand Blanc 2004
Nice one but not my favorite style of champagne.

Taittinger Vintage 2004
No toastines, delicate, withe fruits, fresh and vibrant (17 pts.)

Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs 1996
Toasty, baked apple, honey, nutty, creamy, long and fresh finish. Delicious wine (18.5 pts.)

Champagne Clos du Faubourg Notre Dame 2000
Closed, no oak, no malolactic fermentation, long and acid finish. Bone dry. After half and hour or so it start emerging with some woody-spicy nose and notes of mineral and flint (17.5 pts.)

Tarlant La Vigne d'Antan 2000
Closed and not my favorite style of champagne.

Chartogne -Taillet Les Barres 2006
Round, not so focus, volatile nose. Very young taste.

Pommery Cuvée Louise 1999
Mmmm... elegant and creamy, hints of gunpowder and flint, apple. Despite it's already fells an brilliantly evolved maturity, still extremely young. (19 pts.)

Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995
Intense and very round. Nose of sweet, gunpowder, tropical fruits. Very long and a real sense of liveliness (19+ pts.)

Piper-Heidsieck Rare Vintage 2002
Deep color, still closed but one can feel the power and concentration of this strong and masculine and in the same time elegant wine. Needs aging of 10-20 years. (19 pts.)

Louis Roederer Brut Rosé 2004
Beautiful peach/salmon color, fresh and nervous, waxy, yeasty, autolytic nose... (19 pts.)

Billecart Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé 2000
Quite Burgundian nose, complex, spicy and with a strong character. This need more time. (19 pts.)

Veuve Clicquot Cave Privée Rose 1989
Onion skin color, nose of an old Champagne, dry fruits, coffee, spices, once more Burgundian nose. Elegant, with long finis. Perfectly developed and integrated aromas.This is fantastic food wine (19.5 pts.)

Master Classes, Opus One vertical tasting

One of California’s most famous wineries, Opus One was founded by Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton Rothschild and renowned Napa Valley vintner Robert Mondavi.


Michael Silacci, wine-maker responsible for the last nine remarkable vintages...


Opus One 1979
Remarkable youth color. Leather, earth, farm yard, long smooth and silky. Balanced, elegant and integrated. Very very nice (17.5 pts.)

Opus One 1987
Woody-spicy, minty, eucalyptus, still still relatively tanic. Balanced and young even after 23 years! Very exciting wine (18 pts.)

Opus One 1991
Exuberant but still developing and work in progress...

Opus One 1995
Rich, robust, warm spices, bitter chocolate, very seductive (17.5 pts.)

Opus One 1997
Tick color, nutty, concentrated nose, almost sweet. Very rounded and long and pleasant finish.(18.5 pts.)

Opus One 2001
Beautiful, rich color, very complex nose, spicy, fresh, voluptuous and creamy texture...Just fantastic wine! (19 pts.)

Opus One 2005
Classic stuff but to much for my taste(17.5 pts.)

Opus One 2006
Big contrast to 2005. Exuberant but in the same time restrained. This has fantastic potential (18 pts.)

Bordeaux i Madklubben Bistro de Luxe

A unique dinner in the company of representatives of the 36 Bordeaux wineries.


Each chateau representative has been asked to bring two magnum bottles of their choice... wines are circulate around the tables so you get the opportunity to taste a little of everything... and this is actually very cool concept and it worked out as a charm.


Unfortunately food failed to live up to the expectation, but, fortunately the wine was very solid.

My star of the night was magnum of...


1998 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
Beautiful on the nose, barnyard, black fruits, liquorices... balanced with a good tannin firm acidity. Needs more time to reach full maturity... which have been proven couple of hours later when I've revisited my glass... Mmmm... (92 pts)

The following châteaux have presented a vintage from 1989 to 2007 in addition to their 2009 vintage:

Haut-Medoc
Château Camensac – 5. Cru Classé
Château Cantemerle – 5. Cru Classé

Moulis
Château Chasse-Spleen – Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
Château Poujeaux – Cru Bourgeois Exceptionelle

Margaux
Château du Tertre – 5. Cru Classé
Château Ferrier – 3. Cru Classé
Château Giscours – 3. Cru Classé
Château Labegorce – Crus Bourgeois
Château Marquis d'Alesme – 3. Cru Classé

Saint-Julien
Château Beychevelle – 4. Cru Classé
Château Branaire – 3. Cru Classé
Château Lagrange – 3. Cru Classé
Château Leoville Poyferré – 2. Cru Classé
Château Talbot – 4. Cru Classé

Pauillac
Château Clerc-Milon – 5. Cru Classé
Château d'Armailhac – 5. Cru Classé
Château Grand Puy Lacoste – 5. Cru Classé
Château Haut Bages Liberal – 5. Cru Classé
Château Pichon-Longueville Baron – 2. Cru Classé
Château Pontet-Canet – 5. Cru Classé

Saint-Estèphe
Château Montrose – 2. Cru Classé
Château Phélan-Ségur – Crus Bourgeois Exceptionelle

Pessac-Léognan
Château Carmes Haut Brion
Château Haut-Bailly – Cru Classé
Château Smith Haut Lafitte – Cru Classé
Domaine de Chevalier – Cru Classé

Pomerol
Château la Clémence
Château Gazin
Château Petit Village

Saint-Emilion
Château Angelus – 1. Grand Cru Classé
Château Clos Fourtet – 1. Grand Cru Classé
Château Canon la Gaffeliere – Grand Cru Classé
Château Destieux – Grand Cru Classé
Château Troplong Mondot – Grand Cru Classé

Sauternes
Château Coutet – 1. Cru Classé
Château Suduiraut – 1. Cru Classé

An unforgettable evening and something to be looking forward to.

My picks for July...

2005 Pieve di Santa Restituta, Brunello di Montalcino, Angelo Gaja
In a nutshell: it possess all attributes I adore about Italian wines. Balanced nose of fruit, earth, spice, roses… on the palate complex and continuing to evolve during the dinner.
A perfect wine for a right occasion. (93 pts)


2003 Chateau Clinet, Pomerol
Ripe blackcurrant fruits and spices on the nose. On the palate not very havy, elegant, retrained and fine structure and balance. One of the best 2003 Pomerol I had.(89 pts)

Weinbach Winemaker`s dinner at Noma

At Weinbach Winemaker`s Dinner at Noma I have tasted 2 Grand Cru and few prestige cuvées.

Domaine Weinbach is in the heart of Alsace, Kaysersberg and run by 2 sisters Catherine and Laurence Faller and their mother Colette.


Welcome to the polar bear capital...

What we had:

1st course
* 2008 Muscat Reserve
* Lobster and cucumber

2nd course
* 2008 Gewürtztraminer Réserve
* 2008 Gewürtztraminer Cuvée Théo
* Strong cheese with with celery, simply amazing...



3th course
* 2008 Riesling Reserve
* 2007 Riesling Cuvée Sainte Catherine
* Poached artichokes
* Warm mayonnaise and sea-buckthorn


4th course
* 2008 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg St. Catherine
* 2007 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg St. Catherine
* Quail, nuts and sea-buckthorn

5th course
* 2008 Pinot Gris Cuvée Sainte Catherine
* 2007 Pinot Gris Cuvée Laurence Altenbourg
* Selection of hard Nordic cheeses

The wines are intense but in the same time elegant, dry and very mineral... a perfect food friendly wines. Completely opposite of some Alsace wine houses where fruit sweetness is everything...

The wine star of the day:

2007 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg St. Catherine
Very complex nose. Rich and concentrated. In my opinion, this is one of the richest and finest of the Weinbach Domaine’s wines. (90 pts.)

As for Noma's food; it was not exact same experience as one I had in the restaurants, but it was still Noma quality and invention. You can read more about Noma here A total hedonistic experience and The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

My picks for March...

2000 Louis Jadot, Clos de Loyse, Château des Jacques, Blanc, Bourgogne
Vanilla, delicious, alive. Quite impressive. (85 pts)


2003 Viña Cono Sur Pinot Noir 20 Barrels, Chile
Ruby color, cherry, earthiness, leather. Outstanding balance and perfect mach for the food. (88 pts)


1998 Château Haut Marbuzet, Saint-Estèphe
Structured, silky, affectionate... (92 pts)


2004 Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion, Bordeaux, Pessac-Léognan
Smooth, silky and rich. Fantastic balance. The fact that this is only an entry level white Bordeaux... well it makes this wine simply amazing. (91 pts)

Master Classes, Château Pontet Canet vertical tasting

Once more a unique chance to experience a superb wine vertical tasting.


The rise Pauillac Fifth Growth Pontet-Canet is one of the success stories of Bordeaux and the owner Alfred Tesseron tells the story...


A tasting of 12 vintages from 1990 to 2008, a vertical tasting to remember.


Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Medoc, Pauillac

First Flight: 1990, 1994, 1999

1990 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Nice deep red color. Leather, earth... (88 pts.)

1994 Chateau Pontet-Canet
At the beginning closet but it has opened later. Floral, earth... tannins not well structured. Drink now. (89 pts.)

1999 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Good 1999. Complex nose, well integrated, sweet tannins, refreshing acidity, liquorice on the finish. Excellent and classic. (94 pts.)

Second Flight 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003

2000 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Opulent but very closed. Need time but it will be perfect. (93 pts.)

2001 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Deep, dark, tobacco, blackberry aroma, a full bodied. Drink well now. (92 pts.)

2002 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Nice! Starting to open and it has superb earthy components. Very well balanced with silky tannins. (91 pts.)

2003 Chateau Pontet-Canet
This is amazing stuff. Fresh, fragrant... so atypical for the 2003 vintage. Full bodied. Need time. (93 pts.)

Third Flight: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008

2004 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Drinks well right now. Walnut, chocolate, coffee... Long and sweet tannins and good minerality. (90 pts.)

2005 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Almost violet. Beginning to close down and will stay like that for a long time. KEEP as this is going to be one of the most amazing wine one can have. (95 pts.)

2006 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Tasting 2005 and 2006, back-to-back, prompting the inevitable comparisons. Well made, but far a way from 2005. (89 pts.)

2007 Chateau Pontet-Canet
This is nice wine. Tannic but it will drink very well soon. (89 pts.)

2008 Chateau Pontet-Canet
Barrel sample. I can't access fully but it taste promising...

Alfred's good humor and sincerity is amazing and I'm looking forward for my visit to Bordeaux...

Master Classes, Crus Classés de Graves

One can immediately recognize a strong masterclass, look at the stage... there isn't enough room for all representatives from the the châteaux in question.


Eric Perrin, Ch Carbonnieux; Gilles Maligne, Ch Fieuzal; Clément Bouriez, Ch Couhins; Karim Nasser, Ch Malartic-Lagravière and Laurent Lebrun, Ch Olivier. Of course Decanter publishing director Sarah Kemp is around.


In front of me, David Ornon, Ch Smith Haut Lafite and Andrée Ebersole, Ch Couhins-Lurton

I has been great experience and rare chance to explore the fascinating terroir of the Graves. Wines I've tested includes legendary Graves producers like for example Château Haut-Brion, Château La Mission Haut-Brion, and more.


First flight - red wine:


Château Carbonnieux Rouge 2003
Cedar-wood and earthy (mushrooms/wet wood). Nutty finish. (88pts.)


Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2003
Cedar-wood, smoky pencil lead. very elegant. Light (medium) bodied and excellent minerality. (89pts.)


Château de Fieuzal 2003
Fresh fruit, graphite, pencil lead and toasted oak. Drinks very well now. Good acidity with creamy/rounded and smooth tannins. (89pts.)


Château Haut Bailly 2003
Tobacco, smoke and spice. Quite complex, fresh and elegant. Superb minerality on the finish, the hallmark of this château. (90pts.)


Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2003
Cedar-wood, concentrated, masculine, very silky and rip tannins, long and pleasant finish. Beautiful wine. (93pts.)


Château Pape Clément 2003
Floral, cedar-wood, hay concentrated, masculine, very silky and rip tannins, long and pleasant finish. Still young but a wonderful wine; I want a box of this wine... (94pts.)


Château Smith Haut Lafitte 2003
Dark ruby, smoke, flint-stone, red fruit, tobacco... lots going on and lot of flagrance. Concentrated but not over extracted, sweet and round finish. (92pts.)


Château Haut-Brion 2003
Flagrant, chocolate, tar, and tobacco. Smooth, rounded, silky and very very long finish. Outstanding! (94pts.)


Second flight - 2007 white and they have everything – the complexity, the richness and the finesse.


Château Bouscaut Blanc 2007
A vibrant nose and notes of smoky barrels. Bit grassy. (87pts.)


Château Couhins 2007
Gooseberry, fresh and lovely(88pts.)


Château Couhins-Lurton 2007
Citrus, grapefruit, mineral, fresh, fruity, long and lovely finish. (89pts.)


Château Latour-Martillac Blanc 2007
Clean nose, lively, floral. Fresh, slightly creamy but full of exuberant fruit;(91pts.)


Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc 2007
In my opinion, this is fantastic wine for Asian food. (89pts.)


Château Olivier Blanc 2007
And this, in my opinion a perfect wine for seafood or fresh salads.(89pts.)


At the end, I been lucky enough to win a book on Grave signed by all representatives and an open invitation for visiting château at the beginning of June.

I'll exercise my rights :-)