Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Winter lunch at Aamanns Etablissement, a guest blog post

I try to go beyond my abilities to make the world a better place and a few exceptional contributors and their stories are an inspiration to me, so please guys and girls; we are looking forward for more!

This is a contribution from Christina, welcome ;-)


On what must have been the coldest day yet this winter, I decided to pay hommage to the Nordic spirit and enjoy smørrebrød for lunch at Aamanns (Østerbro, CPH).

Mind you, this was neither the everyday liver paste and pickled beetroot squashed into your lunchbox. Nor the grotesque pile of smelly shrimps on bone dry and sour bread that tourists usually stumble across.
No, this was smørrebrød in a contemporary and truly Nordic sense: simple but with decent ingredients and presented in a minimalistic, elegant way.

Unfortunately I didn't think of bringing my mobile :-( (sorry guys!).
I still believe I should share the experience, though. So hopefully, you will still find this post inspiring.

Professional restraint
The menu immediately reveals that you're in for 'simple and restrained'; Aamann is a pro and knows his stuff. He has no need to boast about it by presenting more than he can cope with.

I chose 'Aamanns lunch', which is the chef's selection of fish (herring), meat, patés, veg and cheese.

First..
The herring was served first. Two kinds, pickled and fried. Strutting their stuff on a small, wooden board, looking gorgeous and delicate and very comfortable on small slices of perfectly moist and smokey rye bread. A single layer of snow white shallot was lying on the edge of the board, longing to be picked up by the herring. A cheeky detail that I loved.

Second..
Next, a platter of three small dishes
- Salad of cod in a light, yet still smooth/ creamy dressing (yogurt?)
- Home made paté (postej) with hazelnuts and pork, decorated with watercress
- Fried goose with dried cranberries

Third..
A soft, danish cheese (Christian something...) full of taste, garnished with a relish made from pears and mustard seeds

All of the dishes were accompanied by plenty of rye bread as well as delicious bread made from a mix of rye and spelt (hmmm don't know the English word for this, and cannot be bothered to look it up right now)

Drink
I chose a light beer to go with the food, which suited the food nicely.
For those of you who are into snaps, Aamanns has quite a few homemade ones to try out.

Impressions
The goose was a little too dry for my taste, but no fault of the kitchen. Everything had been prepared perfectly and true to the traditions of smørrebrød, but with a modern touch.
Towards the end of the meal, I found myself lingering, not really wanting to finish and be forced to leave. Somehow Aamann succeeds in giving you the rich, full taste of Danish winter cuisine without leaving you constipated for days and swearing to give up meat and fat forever :-D

A perfect Danish winter lunch.

Check out the full menu (and a cool image gallery) on Aamanns homepage.

Psst
Remember to book a table in advance! The place was packed.
Kugger

No comments: